Written & researched by Thanawat Charoen, Ingredients & Product Innovation Researcher · Reviewed by Creaton Poh · Published by OEM2YOU · Last reviewed September 2026
Oily and acne-prone skin is a year-round market in a humid climate, and it is crowded with the same three actives: salicylic acid, niacinamide and tea tree. Capryloyl glycine is less familiar to brand owners but well known to formulators, because it does something unusual — it is an oil-control active and a preservative helper at the same time.
This guide covers Seppic’s LIPACIDE™ C8G: what it is, what it can and cannot do for an anti-blemish line, and why it is a pH-sensitive ingredient that your manufacturer needs to handle deliberately.
Quick answer
LIPACIDE™ C8G is Capryloyl Glycine: the amino acid glycine joined to caprylic acid, a plant-derived fatty acid. Seppic positions it for sebum regulation, purifying, pore appearance and microbiome balance, used at 0.5–2%. It also has antimicrobial activity, which is why it is used to boost a preservative system and in deodorant and anti-dandruff products. It is an acidic powder, so it has to be neutralised to dissolve in water, and the final pH of the product decides how well it works and whether it stays in solution.
Key takeaways
- One ingredient, two jobs: oil-control active and preservative booster.
- Useful across face (oily/blemish-prone), scalp (dandruff, oiliness) and body (odour).
- It is an acid that must be neutralised — pH management is part of the formula, not an afterthought.
- Helping the preservative does not remove the need for a preservative efficacy (challenge) test.
- Seppic lists it as Halal certified and vegan; confirm the certificate for the material actually purchased.
Ingredient profile
| Property | Value |
|---|---|
| INCI | Capryloyl Glycine |
| CAS | 14246-53-8 |
| Supplier | Seppic (France) |
| Form / solubility | Powder; amphiphilic — water-dispersible once neutralised |
| Stated use level | 0.5–2% |
| EU CosIng functions | Anti-sebum, anti-seborrhoeic, antimicrobial, deodorant, hair conditioning, cleansing |
| Supplier-stated | Halal certified, vegan, ISO 16128 natural origin >50%, preservative-free |
| Independent safety review | CIR — Safety Assessment of Amino Acid Alkyl Amides as Used in Cosmetics |
What it does
Seppic describes capryloyl glycine as a purifying “lipoaminoacid”: glycine carried into the skin by a fatty acid. Its stated benefits are regulating sebum, helping restore the skin’s slightly acidic surface, and limiting the micro-organisms associated with blemishes, dandruff and body odour. Unusually for an active, the EU CosIng database lists both anti-sebum and antimicrobial among its official functions — the two properties that make it interesting.
That antimicrobial activity is the basis for its second role. Used alongside a conventional preservative, it can allow a lower preservative level, which matters for brands selling to sensitive or acne-prone skin where every irritant counts.
Where it fits against other oil-control actives
| Ingredient | Main role | Note for a brand owner |
|---|---|---|
| Salicylic acid | Exfoliates inside the pore | Regulated concentration limits in cosmetics; can sting. |
| Niacinamide | Sebum and pore appearance, barrier, tone | Very familiar to consumers; hard to differentiate on alone. |
| Zinc PCA | Sebum regulation | Common partner to capryloyl glycine. |
| Capryloyl glycine | Sebum regulation, purifying, preservative support | Less familiar name, but a genuine differentiator, and it works in face, scalp and body. |
Capryloyl glycine is not a replacement for salicylic acid; it does not exfoliate. It is most useful as a partner that adds oil control and microbial balance without adding more acid-sting.
How it behaves in a formula
- It must be neutralised. Supplied as an acidic powder, it is dispersed in water and neutralised with a base until it dissolves, then the formula is brought to its final pH.
- pH is a trade-off. The antimicrobial effect of fatty-acid-type ingredients is generally stronger at a mildly acidic pH, while solubility improves as the pH rises. The formulator has to pick a final pH that balances the two — the supplier’s technical data sheet gives the working range.
- It is surface-active. CosIng also lists it as a cleansing agent. That makes it a natural fit for cleansers and shampoos, and it can affect the viscosity and feel of a leave-on product.
- Challenge testing still applies. Even when it lets a manufacturer lower the preservative level, the finished product must pass a preservative efficacy test (for example ISO 11930). “Preservative-boosting” is a formulation benefit, not a label claim.
An illustrative starting framework: oil-control toner-gel
| Phase | Ingredient role | Indicative % |
|---|---|---|
| A | Water, humectant, chelator | to 100 |
| B | Capryloyl glycine, neutralised in part of the water | 0.5–1 |
| C | Niacinamide, zinc PCA | 2–4 / 0.1–0.5 |
| D | Light gelling polymer, soothing active | 0.2–1 |
| E | Reduced-level preservative system, final pH | q.s. |
A discussion framework, not a validated formula. The final pH and the preservative level must be fixed together, and then proven by a challenge test.
What to ask your OEM manufacturer
- “What final pH will the product sit at, and why that pH?” The answer should mention both solubility and antimicrobial performance.
- “Are you reducing the preservative because of the capryloyl glycine — and is the challenge test on the final formula?”
- “Is this the same formula base for my cleanser and my toner?” Its cleansing character makes it easy to carry across a small range, which helps MOQ planning. See our MOQ and pricing guide.
- “Do you hold the halal certificate for this material?”
What you can say on the label in Malaysia
“Controls excess oil”, “for oily and blemish-prone skin”, “minimises the look of pores” and “purifying” are cosmetic-appearance claims. “Treats acne”, “kills acne bacteria” and “antibacterial” move toward medical territory. For scalp products, “helps control the appearance of flakes” is the safer family of wording. Check draft copy against NPRA’s Guideline for Cosmetic Claims before artwork.
Frequently asked questions
Is capryloyl glycine a preservative?
It has antimicrobial activity and is used to support preservative systems, but it is not a substitute for a tested preservative system. The finished product still needs a challenge test.
Can I claim “preservative-free” if I use it?
Be very careful. “Free-from” claims must be truthful and not misleading, and an ingredient doing a preserving job can make a “preservative-free” claim misleading. Take advice on the specific wording.
Can it be used with salicylic acid?
They are complementary in function. The practical question is the final pH, since salicylic acid products are usually formulated more acidic. Your formulator will decide whether both fit in one product or work better as a two-step routine.
Is it only for the face?
No. It is used in scalp care for oiliness and flaking, and in body and deodorant products for odour.
Is it gentle enough for sensitive skin?
Seppic positions it as suitable for sensitive skin, partly because it can allow less preservative. The finished formula still needs its own safety assessment.
Sources & references
- Seppic — LIPACIDE™ C8G product page (positioning, use level, certifications)
- Seppic Inc. on Knowde — LIPACIDE™ C8G (preservative-booster and purifying positioning)
- European Commission — CosIng ingredient database (official functions of capryloyl glycine)
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review — Safety Assessment of Amino Acid Alkyl Amides as Used in Cosmetics
- ISO 11930 — Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product
- NPRA — Annex I, Part 8: Guideline for Cosmetic Claims
Disclosure
OEM2YOU is a cosmetics manufacturer. We are not affiliated with Seppic and received nothing for this article. Ingredient data is drawn from the supplier’s published information and the sources above; practical notes reflect general manufacturing experience and are not a substitute for a tested formula.
Update history
September 2026 — First published.