Written & researched by Thanawat Charoen, Ingredients & Product Innovation Researcher · Reviewed by Creaton Poh · Published by OEM2YOU · Last reviewed September 2026
Anti-ageing briefs tend to start with the newest peptide on the market. Very often, what the brand actually needs is a proven, stable, reasonably priced firming active that a factory can run without surprises. Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline — sold by Seppic as SEPILIFT™ DPHP — has been in anti-ageing formulas for many years for exactly that reason.
This guide explains what it is, why “collagen” is the right story but the wrong claim, and the single formulation fact that decides which products it can and cannot go into.
Quick answer
SEPILIFT™ DPHP is Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline: hydroxyproline, an amino acid that is a signature building block of collagen, attached to two palmitic acid chains so it can travel into the skin. Seppic positions it for wrinkles, firmness and moisturisation, stating that it helps contract collagen fibres, protects skin fibres from enzymatic breakdown and has an anti-free-radical effect. Seppic’s stated use level is 1%; distributors quote 0.5–2%. It is oil-soluble and must be melted into the oil phase at about 80–85°C — so it suits creams, lotions, balms and oils, not clear water serums.
Key takeaways
- A long-established firming active: a lower-risk choice than a brand-new peptide.
- Oil phase only, melted hot. That one fact decides the product format.
- Positioned for wrinkles, firmness and moisturisation, with some emulsifying character of its own.
- Seppic lists it as Halal certified, COSMOS approved, NATRUE, vegan and readily biodegradable.
- On the label: “supports firmer-looking skin” — not “rebuilds collagen” or “works like a filler”.
Ingredient profile
| Property | Value |
|---|---|
| INCI | Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline |
| CAS | 41672-81-5 |
| Supplier | Seppic (France) |
| Form / solubility | Powder; oil-dispersible; melted at ~80–85°C |
| Stated use level | 1% (Seppic); 0.5–2% quoted by distributors |
| EU CosIng functions | Skin conditioning, hair conditioning, antistatic |
| Supplier-stated | Halal certified, COSMOS Approved, NATRUE Approved, vegan, mass-balance certified, ISO 16128 natural origin >99%, readily biodegradable (OECD 301) |
What it does
Hydroxyproline makes up a large share of collagen’s structure, which is why it is a natural reference point for anti-ageing. On its own it is water-loving and does not easily pass into the skin; attaching two palmitic acid chains makes it lipophilic, so it can be delivered from an oil phase.
Seppic describes a “complete action on the dermis”: helping collagen fibres contract (a tightening effect), protecting skin fibres from enzymes that break them down, and acting against free radicals. Its stated clinical benefits are reduced deep and fine wrinkles, better moisturisation and smoother, more rejuvenated-looking skin. These are supplier data — valuable for choosing the ingredient, but not a substitute for testing your own product if you want to print a result.
The one formulation fact that matters
SEPILIFT™ DPHP is an oil-phase ingredient that has to be melted. The standard method is to add it to the oil phase before emulsification, heat to about 80°C until it has fully melted and dissolved, then emulsify. An alternative is to pre-dissolve it in a suitable emollient at the same temperature and add the solution to the oil phase.
| Format | Fit |
|---|---|
| Day / night cream, eye cream | Excellent — its natural home |
| Lotion, milky serum | Good |
| Face oil, balm, anhydrous stick | Possible, with the right oils to hold it in solution |
| Clear water serum, toner, cold-process gel | Poor — choose a water-soluble peptide instead |
A useful side-effect: Seppic lists emulsifying among its functions, so it contributes to the structure of an emulsion as well as to its claims.
An illustrative starting framework: firming night cream
| Phase | Ingredient role | Indicative % |
|---|---|---|
| A (water, heated) | Water, glycerin, chelator | to 100 |
| B (oil, 80–85°C until melted) | Emollients, fatty alcohol, emulsifier, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline | 15–25 total; DPHP 1 |
| C (below 40°C) | Water-soluble peptide, niacinamide or hyaluronic acid | per supplier |
| D | Preservative system, pH adjustment | q.s. |
A framework for discussion, not a validated formula. Pairing an oil-phase active like DPHP with a water-phase peptide is a common way to build a two-mechanism anti-ageing story in one cream.
Why an established active can be the smarter choice
- Documentation is mature. Specifications, safety data and certificates are usually easier to obtain for an ingredient with a long market history.
- Supply is predictable. Newer launch actives sometimes have limited regional stock or long lead times.
- Claims are well-trodden. The cosmetic wording that works for firming products is well understood.
- Differentiation comes from the whole product. Texture, pairing, packaging and positioning do more for a new brand than the novelty of one active — see why exclusive formulation matters.
What to ask your OEM manufacturer
- “Which phase does the DPHP go into, and at what temperature?” The answer should be the oil phase, hot, until fully melted.
- “If I want a lighter serum, what format still carries it properly?” A milky serum or light lotion usually works; a clear gel does not.
- “What second active would you pair it with, and why?”
- “Do you hold the halal certificate for this lot?” The supplier lists it as Halal certified; your manufacturer should be able to produce the document.
What you can say on the label in Malaysia
“Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles”, “skin looks firmer” and “moisturises and smooths” are cosmetic-appearance claims. “Rebuilds collagen”, “lifts like a facelift” or “filler effect” imply a physiological or procedural result and should be avoided. NPRA’s Guideline for Cosmetic Claims is the reference; our NPRA notification guide covers the process.
Frequently asked questions
Is Sepilift DPHP a peptide?
Not strictly. It is a single amino acid (hydroxyproline) made fat-soluble with two fatty-acid chains. It is often grouped with peptides in anti-ageing because it works on the same collagen story.
Can I put it in a serum?
In a milky or emulsion serum, yes. In a clear water-based serum, no — it needs an oil phase.
Can it be used around the eyes?
It is used in eye creams. As with any product for the eye area, the finished formula needs its own safety assessment and, ideally, an ophthalmological tolerance test.
Is it suitable for a halal product?
Seppic lists it as Halal certified. For a halal-certified finished product, the certificate for the material purchased and the product’s own certification both matter. See our halal cosmetics guide.
How is it different from collagen in a cream?
Collagen protein applied to the skin mainly acts as a film-forming moisturiser; it is too large to pass into the skin. Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is a small, fat-soluble molecule designed to be delivered into the upper layers of the skin.
Sources & references
- Seppic — SEPILIFT™ DPHP product page (mechanism, clinical positioning, use level, certifications)
- Seppic Inc. on Knowde — SEPILIFT™ DPHP
- Lotioncrafter — Sepilift DPHP (processing temperature and distributor use range)
- European Commission — CosIng ingredient database
- NPRA — Annex I, Part 8: Guideline for Cosmetic Claims
Disclosure
OEM2YOU is a cosmetics manufacturer. We are not affiliated with Seppic and received nothing for this article. Ingredient data is drawn from the supplier’s published information and the sources above; practical notes reflect general manufacturing experience and are not a substitute for a tested formula.
Update history
September 2026 — First published.