Written & researched by Thanawat Charoen, Ingredients & Product Innovation Researcher · Reviewed by Creaton Poh · Published by OEM2YOU · Last reviewed September 2026
“Cica” is on almost every soothing product in Southeast Asia now, and almost every brief we receive for a sensitive-skin line asks for Centella asiatica. What the brief rarely says is which Centella. A generic Centella extract, a titrated Centella extract and purified madecassoside are three different materials with very different costs, doses and levels of evidence — and they can all end up printed on a box as “with Centella”.
This guide is about the purified end of that range: madecassoside. What it is, why brands pay more for it, how easy it is to formulate, and the one labelling trap that catches brands who read the supplier’s brochure too literally.
Quick answer
Madecassoside is one of the main active molecules (a triterpene glycoside) in Centella asiatica leaves. Seppic supplies it as MADECASSOSIDE, a water-soluble powder with a stated purity above 95%, sourced in Madagascar, at a use level of 0.2% (distributors quote 0.2–0.5%). Because it is a single, defined molecule, the dose is exact and batch-to-batch variation is low — unlike a generic plant extract. It is easy to formulate: it dissolves in water and common glycols and does not need heat. The trap is the claim: the supplier’s clinical work is on atopic- and psoriasis-prone skin, and those words cannot appear on a cosmetic label in Malaysia.
Key takeaways
- “Centella” on a label can mean a crude extract, a titrated extract or a purified molecule. Ask which one you are paying for.
- Madecassoside is water-soluble and cold-process friendly — one of the simplest actives to add to a serum, toner or gel.
- At 0.2% it is a low-dose, high-value active: a little goes a long way, which keeps unit cost manageable.
- Supplier positioning: soothing, anti-redness, anti-itching, barrier and moisturisation support.
- On a Malaysian cosmetic label: “soothes” and “calms the look of redness” — never “for eczema”, “for psoriasis” or “for atopic dermatitis”.
Three kinds of “Centella”
| Material | What it is | What it means for your product |
|---|---|---|
| Centella asiatica extract | A whole-plant or leaf extract, usually in water/glycol. Active content often not stated. | Cheapest. Good for a story; weakest on consistency. Two suppliers’ “Centella extract” can differ many-fold in actives. |
| Titrated extract (e.g. TECA) | An extract standardised to its main triterpenes. | Mid-price. Defined active content, a long history in dermo-cosmetics. |
| Madecassoside (purified) | One isolated molecule, >95% pure. | Highest price per kg, lowest dose. Exact, repeatable, and the strongest basis for a “hero ingredient” story. |
None of these is wrong. The mistake is paying for a purified-active story while buying a crude extract — or paying purified-active prices for a product that only needed a botanical mention.
What madecassoside does
Seppic describes a combined action: calming the skin, supporting the barrier and moisturisation, and protecting the dermal matrix. Its published clinical positioning covers reductions in redness, desquamation (flaking) and roughness, and improvement in stratum corneum hydration. Independent research on Centella triterpenes more broadly supports anti-inflammatory and collagen-related activity; a 2024 study in Pharmaceutics examined how madecassoside and asiaticoside are released from cold-processed topical formulas.
As always, the supplier’s clinical data supports choosing the ingredient. It does not substitute for testing your own finished product if you plan to print a result.
Ingredient profile
| Property | Value |
|---|---|
| INCI | Madecassoside |
| CAS | 34540-22-2 |
| Supplier | Seppic (France); leaves sourced in Madagascar |
| Form / solubility | Powder; water-soluble; soluble in propanediol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol |
| Stated use level | 0.2% |
| EU CosIng functions | Antioxidant, skin conditioning |
| Supplier-stated | Preservative-free, vegan suitable, ISO 16128 natural origin >99%. No halal certification listed. |
How it behaves in a formula
- Dissolve first, then add. The simplest route is to pre-dissolve the powder in water or a glycol such as butylene glycol or propanediol, then add it to the batch. No heating is required, which suits cold-process gels and serums.
- Works across formats. Toners, essences, gel-creams, emulsions and sheet-mask essences. Because it is water-soluble, it goes in the water phase of an emulsion or after emulsification.
- Low dose, clean label. One INCI name at 0.2%, no carrier, no preservative brought in with it.
- Pairs well with barrier ingredients. Common partners are panthenol, ceramides, allantoin and glycerin. It is also a sensible “comfort” ingredient in products containing actives that can sting.
An illustrative starting framework: soothing gel-serum
| Phase | Ingredient role | Indicative % |
|---|---|---|
| A | Water, glycerin, chelator, gel-forming polymer | to 100 |
| B | Madecassoside pre-dissolved in butylene glycol or propanediol | 0.2 (in 2–5 glycol) |
| C | Panthenol, allantoin | 1–3 |
| D | Low-irritation preservative system, pH adjustment | q.s. |
This is a discussion framework, not a validated formula. For a sensitive-skin product, fragrance-free and a gentle preservative choice usually matter as much as the hero active.
The labelling trap
Seppic’s own tagline for the material is “soothing for atopic & psoriasis-prone skin”, and its clinical work includes a local PASI score — a psoriasis measure. That is legitimate for an ingredient supplier describing its research. It is not copy you can move onto a cosmetic product in Malaysia. Naming a disease or a medical condition on the label, in the product name or in advertising takes the product outside the cosmetic category. NPRA also restricts product names that refer to diseases — see Annex I, Part 2.
| Cosmetic wording (generally acceptable) | Medical wording (not for a cosmetic) |
|---|---|
| Soothes and comforts sensitive skin | For eczema / atopic dermatitis |
| Calms the appearance of redness | Treats psoriasis |
| Supports the skin’s moisture barrier | Heals wounds / repairs damaged skin tissue |
What to ask your OEM manufacturer
- “Which Centella material is in this quotation — extract, titrated extract or madecassoside — and at what percentage?”
- “Can I see the certificate of analysis showing purity?” For a purified active, the purity figure is what you are paying for.
- “Is the material halal-certified?” Seppic does not list halal certification for this grade. If halal is part of your positioning, the manufacturer needs a documented route before you commit.
- “Will you review my claims and product name before artwork?”
Frequently asked questions
Is madecassoside better than Centella extract?
It is more defined, not automatically “better”. It gives an exact, repeatable dose of one known active. A good titrated extract delivers a broader mix of Centella triterpenes. The right choice depends on your price point and the story you want to tell.
Can I use madecassoside in a cream?
Yes. It goes into the water phase or is added after emulsification. It does not need heat.
Is it safe for sensitive skin?
It is used specifically in products for sensitive skin. The finished product still needs its own safety assessment, and a fragrance-free, low-irritation base matters as much as the active.
Can I call my product a “cica cream”?
“Cica” is a common marketing term for Centella and is used widely on cosmetics. What matters is that the product name and claims do not refer to a disease or a medical treatment.
How much does it add to the unit cost?
Madecassoside is expensive per kilogram but used at 0.2%, so the per-unit effect is usually modest for standard pack sizes. Ask your manufacturer for the formula cost with and without it.
Sources & references
- Seppic — MADECASSOSIDE product page (purity, sourcing, use level, clinical positioning)
- Seppic — An ultimate guide on Centella asiatica extract
- Controlled release of madecassoside and asiaticoside of Centella asiatica from sustainable cold-processed topical formulations — PMC, 2024
- European Commission — CosIng ingredient database (INCI functions)
- NPRA — Annex I, Part 8: Guideline for Cosmetic Claims
- NPRA — Annex I, Part 2: Non-Permissible Product Name
Sourcing a Sheet Mask or Serum Manufacturer
Cica-family actives like these are commonly specified in sheet masks and serums specifically — if you are choosing a contract manufacturer rather than just an ingredient, see our comparison of OEM/ODM sheet mask and serum companies in China for how certification and formulation-library depth vary by factory.
Disclosure
OEM2YOU is a cosmetics manufacturer. We are not affiliated with Seppic and received nothing for this article. Ingredient data is drawn from the supplier’s published information and the sources above; practical notes reflect general manufacturing experience and are not a substitute for a tested formula.
Update history
September 2026 — First published.